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Installation Guide for FreeRide Wakeboarding Tower:
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Your FreeRide Wakeboarding Tower is designed for years of enjoyment. Please read through these instructions before beginning installation. |
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Important Tower information
The FreeRide tower fits 75-100 inch wide hulls. This measurement is
taken from the mounting points, so the side to side must be greater than
75 inches in the front and back.
• Do not fold the tower without having the top section bolted
• Do not fold the tower by your self
• Do not assemble tower on the ground and then try to put in on the boat
• Do not tow tubers (only tow wakeboarders or waterskiers)
• Do not use impact drivers on any hardware
• Torque set screws to 35ft-lbs
• Torque shoulder bolts 50 ft-lbs
• Torque tower foot all thread to 65 ft-lbs
• All set screws should have red lock tite
• Check the top section for burr’s we are not liable for them
• You might notice your tower moving side to side when you tow your
Boat, but, actually, the boat on the trailer is actually moving too.
• If your fiberglass is less than ¼ you will need to purchase a backing
Plate kit
• Please leave foam wrap on until finished installing the tower
• If you have any question during the install please contact Aerial
Wakeboarding
CLEANING
• Mothers Mag & Allumin polish will restore to original finish
• Wash with soap and water
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IMPORTANT WARNING
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• BE CAREFUL when assembling this product! We CANNOT be liable for any burring or scratching that may occur when sliding sections in and out of each other.
• NEVER modify this product in any way
• NEVER climb, ride or stand on this product
• NEVER pull watersport tubes or
inflatables
• ALWAYS use caution with approaching
bridges and overpasses
• ALWAYS inspect this product for loose bolts and damage before each use
• CONSULT user manual for proper installation, maintenance and usage
• AERIAL WAKEBOARDING is not liable for personal injury or property damage from the use of this product
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Determine placement of tower.
This tower fits 75-100 inch wide hulls. |
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TUBE TRIMMING
Where a narrow fit is required the side section tubes may require trimming.
Use a hacksaw to trim each tube and then deburr the edges with a file. |
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Tower can be mounted as a top or side mount-see hull mounting section |
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Detail of how base installation on hull. |
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Tower dimensions. |
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Exploded view. |
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Parts list.
Start by carefully opening the plastic bags and inspecting all items. It is best to do so on a moving blanket or a soft surface.
If you discover any defects (defined as marks more than 1 inch long), please contact Aerial Wakeboarding immediately BEFORE installation. Note that wakeboarding towers are handcrafted metal products. It is possible and acceptable for minor blemishes and marks to appear on the finish.
IMPORTANT: We recommend returning items to their plastic bags to protect them during installation. |
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TOOLS NEEDED:
• Blue 3M tape
• Drill (capable of accepting bits up to 1/2 inch)
• File
• Drill bit set ranging from 1/4 - 5/8 inches
• Ratchet set
• A Permanent Marker
• A friend to help |
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Tape off all the areas that may potentially come into contact with the side rails. |
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Arrange upper arms so you can identify items #20, 26, 19 and 27. |
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Upper Arm to side Rail
1. Please see diagram above to determine the upper arms.
2. They should bolt together very easily
3. Leave them one turn from being tight
4. This will help slide into the H-section #25 |
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H-Section (#25)
1. Be sure to check the H-section for any burr or defects prior to inserting the upper arms Aerial is not liable for burr’s
2. The clear Milar should be wrapped around the tube before you insert it into the H-section, once your tower has been installed you will remove it. The Milar is there to help prevent any scratch’s from sliding the tubes in and out.
3. You will just tuck the wire for the tower light into the tube for the time being.
4. When you get to the wiring step you will remove one of the upper arm and run the wire through it.
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Placement/Folding
1. Tower folding is always a 2 person job
2. Placement is key. Remember this tower folds forward.
3. Start by loosing the quick knobs on the main clamp.
4. Remove the shoulder bolt from the Heim joint and tower foot. Repeat for the other side. Swing the from supports into the boat, and the tighten down the quick knobs.
5. It will now be free to fold forward/down. A boat fender or cushion works well for padding.
6. Always tow with you tower in the UP position (do NOT fold and tow). |
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Tower Placement
1. Once you have put your tower together, go a head lift the tower on the boat. (just the main frame)
2. If you have an over head garage or tree you might be able to use it to take up the weight.
3. This will help determine where the tower will fit on you boat. Remember to check the under side prior to drill for wires, also make sure you have access to that area.
4. Once you have a general area for the rear tower feet, go a head and make some marks.
5. You will need to measure to make sure that you have the tower feet in the same place side to side.
6. As a note some times cleats are not in the same place on your boat. |
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Drilling for the Rear Feet
1. Once you have marked your 4 holes, check the underside for wires.
2. If necessary, you should move the wires out ofthe way while you drill. We recommend drilling a small pilot hole which will keep the 5/8” drill bit from walking (moving). A small rat tail file can be used to ease the edge and keep the gel coat from chipping. Be careful of wires! |
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Assemble feet. |
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Backing Plates
On the inside of your boat will be the backing plate, a nylock nut. If your fiberglass is less than 1/4” thick, we recommend reinforcing the areas where your tower will attach. Remove just enough blue tape for your tower feet to snugged up to your boat. Aerial sells a backing plate kit with instructions, it will add 20 minutes to the install and is cheap insurance. |
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Bolting the Feet to the Deck
1. Use part number 11 with lock tite
2. Make sure you have chamfered the edge before inserting the foot to the deck. ( if you do not, you will get gel coat cracking)
3. There is a rubber washer that goes between the base and the deck
4. Use the supplied the backing washer and nylock nuts
5. Get them snug, you will tighten after the tower is complete |
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Connect Tower Feet to Main Frame
1. Once both rear tower feet are secure go ahead and lift the main frame up.
2. You will use the shoulder bolts part #10
3. We recommend that you insert the shoulder bolt from the inside of the boat.
4. The frame should be able to move up and down at this point. |
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Forward Support
1. Start by assembling parts- 7,8,9,10,15,16,17
2. Snap #3 on to the main frame
3. At our shop we have an over head lift, we used this to hold the tower in the “up position”
4. Put #1 and #7 together with part #14
5. It is easier to build the right & left together
6. With you friends help take the assembled front support and clamp it around the tower with parts #4,& 6
7. By “hanging” the tower you can step back and find the “look” of you tower. You might want to lower or raise it depending on your boat. |
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See illustration for side assembly. |
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Front Tower Foot
1. This step will be the same as the rear
Once you have marked your 4 holes, check the underside for wires.
2. If necessary, you should move the wires out ofthe way while you drill. We recommend drilling a small pilot hole which will keep the 5/8” drill bit from walking (moving). A small rat tail file can be used to ease the edge and keep the gel coat from chipping. Be careful of wires!
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Drilling the Front Support
1. Once the tower is in the “air” you will need to mark the 2 holes that you will have to drill in the front support. Use a 9mm drill bit or a 23/64 drill bit.
2. Use a sharpie to mark the holes on both sides.
3. Disassemble the front support apart to drill the holes.
4. Once drilled put the support back together and bolt it. |
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Drilling the Top Section
1. Once the tower is “up” mark the hole and drill them with a 3/8 drill bit
2. The FreeRide tower has parts # 24 which is the integrated nut.
3. Part #23 is the integrated speaker clamp. |
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Wiring
1. There are channels in the lap joints for wires
2. These channels are designed for the speaker wires and navigation light wires to be ran through them
3. Yes where the tube in the main frame steps down for the clamp it is hollow. At the very bottom of the tower about 2 inches up you will drill a hole for the wires to exit the tower
4. There are couple ways of getting the wire through the tower.
First option is to use a wire fish, and fish the wires through.
Second is to use a vacuum and suck a light piece of string or rope through.
Then tape the wires to either the fish or the rope.
The Aerial wiring harness comes with a deck fitting for the wiring to pass through |
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Tower Light
As of January 1st 2010 all towers must have a 360 navigation light at the tallest point, in this case we have integrated an USCG 2 mile certified light.
The wires for this light will be ran down through the tower and tied into 360 navigation your boat already has. |
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